Great question. For the next month, at least, the answer is found in Warren, Vermont. Some friends I met in The Eternal asked me to come work with them at their newly purchased hostel. A link to their blog is on the right. The goal in Rome was turn my experience there into something that would benefit me here. I can't say I ever thought it would be working in a hostel, I always thought something along the lines of import/export dealing in olive oil or wine. However, I keep hearing friends' voice in my ear, "Everything happens for a reason."
My role at the hostel isn't exactly clear as of yet. Since I'm the only employee at this point, I'll be a part of just about every aspect from the bar, to the kitchen, to maintenance, to whatever else is necessary. It's exciting to be a part of a new venture and also to get a lot of first-hand education starting and running a business. I have no interest in owning a hostel in the future but I do have plans for a restaurant so this experience will fit in quite nicely.
I've told my friends/bosses that I would like to join them for a month as a trial before I move my entire life to another part of the world again. I have a million questions running through my head but I think a month will be plenty of time to figure out the answers. But it boils down to this; if I like the work and I'm gaining invaluable experience for what I want in the future, I'll stay with them. If it's anything short of that I'll be back in Seattle and off to culinary school.
Monday, June 1, 2009
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
The Summing Up
As the title says, this is the post where I sum up my time in Italy into a nice, concise paragraph or two. Thinking back to when we arrived in Rome and even before then remains painful but I'll do my best. The fantasy of over three years ago versus the reality of today.
Fantasy: Move abroad without any guarantees of success, family or friends.
Reality: A year of planning guaranteed success for three years. I lost the first girl I ever loved but made a lot of great, new friends.
Fantasy: Travel all over Italy and Europe as well.
Reality: Even with cheap flights connecting Italy to the rest of Europe, finding money and time together is difficult no matter where you live. I'm happy with where I went and all I can do is go back again and again to see the rest.
Fantasy: Live in Rome for three years and become fluent enough to use it in future career endeavors.
Reality: It was impossible to take Italian lessons and work two jobs at the same time. I feel good about my level after three years of learning "on the streets" but am nowhere near fluent. I like to say I speak "restaurant Italian". I can read Italian cookbooks fairly well though which will be very useful in a future endeavor.
Fantasy: Work and live in Rome.
Reality: Worked and lived Rome. In fact, I was hired by and worked for same school the entire three years. It was the first school to interview me. I also feel like I truly lived in Rome. I went to my local market where the vendors knew me. I had a coffee bar or two where I was a regular and was treated accordingly. I know many of the neighborhoods quite well and I think I walked or tripped over every damn cobblestone in that city.
Fantasy: Meet an Italian granny and have her teach me all her "secrets".
Reality: I was lucky to have an Italian granny smile at me once. They are not so friendly to those outside their family. I'm not sure there are "secrets", just high quality (don't read expensive), simple ingredients combined with a little practice and a lot of love. However, thanks to my students and I received thousands of invaluable hours of discussions on all things food and recipes disguised as English lessons and I got paid for it! Ask a Roman their next holiday, their opinion on soccer, for directions, or the best way to prepare carbonara or amatriciana and you'll have them for hours.
I wish I could thank the guy who told a twenty-year old, Las Vegas version me "When in Rome, do as the Romans." Of course he had no idea that snidely delivered bit of advice would come in handy seven years later. Probably the single most misused phrase I heard in my time in Rome but sometimes the basest of platitudes are the truest. I took it to heart and did my best.
Fantasy: Move abroad without any guarantees of success, family or friends.
Reality: A year of planning guaranteed success for three years. I lost the first girl I ever loved but made a lot of great, new friends.
Fantasy: Travel all over Italy and Europe as well.
Reality: Even with cheap flights connecting Italy to the rest of Europe, finding money and time together is difficult no matter where you live. I'm happy with where I went and all I can do is go back again and again to see the rest.
Fantasy: Live in Rome for three years and become fluent enough to use it in future career endeavors.
Reality: It was impossible to take Italian lessons and work two jobs at the same time. I feel good about my level after three years of learning "on the streets" but am nowhere near fluent. I like to say I speak "restaurant Italian". I can read Italian cookbooks fairly well though which will be very useful in a future endeavor.
Fantasy: Work and live in Rome.
Reality: Worked and lived Rome. In fact, I was hired by and worked for same school the entire three years. It was the first school to interview me. I also feel like I truly lived in Rome. I went to my local market where the vendors knew me. I had a coffee bar or two where I was a regular and was treated accordingly. I know many of the neighborhoods quite well and I think I walked or tripped over every damn cobblestone in that city.
Fantasy: Meet an Italian granny and have her teach me all her "secrets".
Reality: I was lucky to have an Italian granny smile at me once. They are not so friendly to those outside their family. I'm not sure there are "secrets", just high quality (don't read expensive), simple ingredients combined with a little practice and a lot of love. However, thanks to my students and I received thousands of invaluable hours of discussions on all things food and recipes disguised as English lessons and I got paid for it! Ask a Roman their next holiday, their opinion on soccer, for directions, or the best way to prepare carbonara or amatriciana and you'll have them for hours.
I wish I could thank the guy who told a twenty-year old, Las Vegas version me "When in Rome, do as the Romans." Of course he had no idea that snidely delivered bit of advice would come in handy seven years later. Probably the single most misused phrase I heard in my time in Rome but sometimes the basest of platitudes are the truest. I took it to heart and did my best.
Sunday, May 24, 2009
L'Ultimo Giorno in Italia
On our last day, we avoided cannoli, arancine, spleen sandwiches, and suspect markets. Instead we opted for a long drive along the coast out to the most northwestern tip of Sicily, a place called San Vito Lo Capo. Along the way there were some beautiful spots as well.
The view of Castellamare del Golfo
The lighthouse at San Vito Lo Capo
One last sunset in Italy and I was on a plane back to Seattle less than 24 hours later.
The view of Castellamare del Golfo
The lighthouse at San Vito Lo Capo
One last sunset in Italy and I was on a plane back to Seattle less than 24 hours later.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
An Offer One Can't Refuse
After a lot of arm twisting to join me in Sicily, Meganne agreed on one condition. The condition being that we would drive to the town where her mother's family comes from. No problem for me, driving in Italy was finally starting to be fun. The town is called San Giuseppe Jato, it is known for its beef cattle breeding, as the birthplace of one of the most deadly bosses of the Mafia and happens to only be about an hour from Balestrate.
We found the town rather easily and once there we stopped at the first bar we saw to have a cappuccino before starting the search. The only information Meganne had about her family was a few first and last names and some information from her uncle describing a piazza where a family business had been. We walked down the main street and took a few photos, checked out a church or two, unsuccessfully tried to find the piazza and then headed back towards the bar. Meganne decided to ask the bar if they had a phone book to see if she could find the last name. The bar didn't have a phone book but a patron standing next to us asked her whom she was looking for. She gave him the name and he said that he knew a man by that name and that he could take us there. We were led around the corner from the bar and knocked on a door. An elderly man opened the door, we were introduced and a minute later we were in the door and Meganne was explaining that she thought she was his long, lost great-cousin (or something like that) from America. Hilarious. They talked for a few minutes before he called his son to come over. The son came over with a fifteen-page family tree in hand and sure enough, there was Meganne's name! The son then called another cousin to come over and chat. Everyone was shocked and so happy that she spoke Italian!
A few hours later, we were invited to have a tour of the area, lunch, and a place to stay in town if we wanted. We graciously accepted the offer and they took us around the countryside and showed us their homes. We shared a massive lunch in local restaurant and like always, I was expected to finish all of the food. Our tentative plans for the day included some other things but during lunch they told us to cancel them and visit a town that is famous for cannoli and go to a working farm for some fresh sheep's milk cheeses. It's hard to refuse such offers. After lunch, we drove to the town of Piana degli Albanesi for the cannoli. This town is very serious about its cannoli as evidenced by the yearly cannoli festival. Unfortunately, we had just missed it.
Piana degli Albanesi sits on a beautiful lake
i cugini - Pasquale e Giusseppe
yet another cannoli
After the huge lunch and cannoli, I was feeling rather full. Generally, after a big meal, a nice walk is in order. Instead, we piled back into the car and made our way to the farm. It was a rough ride, literally. Most of the way was gravel roads and both Meganne and I were feeling really queasy from all the food, the cannolo and the bumpy roads. After about 45 minutes, we finally made it to the farm. We got to watch the process and take a walk through the operation. Then at the end, they loaded Meganne up with about 20 pounds of their cheese.
After a great day, we said our goodbyes and went back to Balestrate for the evening.
La Famiglia
We found the town rather easily and once there we stopped at the first bar we saw to have a cappuccino before starting the search. The only information Meganne had about her family was a few first and last names and some information from her uncle describing a piazza where a family business had been. We walked down the main street and took a few photos, checked out a church or two, unsuccessfully tried to find the piazza and then headed back towards the bar. Meganne decided to ask the bar if they had a phone book to see if she could find the last name. The bar didn't have a phone book but a patron standing next to us asked her whom she was looking for. She gave him the name and he said that he knew a man by that name and that he could take us there. We were led around the corner from the bar and knocked on a door. An elderly man opened the door, we were introduced and a minute later we were in the door and Meganne was explaining that she thought she was his long, lost great-cousin (or something like that) from America. Hilarious. They talked for a few minutes before he called his son to come over. The son came over with a fifteen-page family tree in hand and sure enough, there was Meganne's name! The son then called another cousin to come over and chat. Everyone was shocked and so happy that she spoke Italian!
A few hours later, we were invited to have a tour of the area, lunch, and a place to stay in town if we wanted. We graciously accepted the offer and they took us around the countryside and showed us their homes. We shared a massive lunch in local restaurant and like always, I was expected to finish all of the food. Our tentative plans for the day included some other things but during lunch they told us to cancel them and visit a town that is famous for cannoli and go to a working farm for some fresh sheep's milk cheeses. It's hard to refuse such offers. After lunch, we drove to the town of Piana degli Albanesi for the cannoli. This town is very serious about its cannoli as evidenced by the yearly cannoli festival. Unfortunately, we had just missed it.
Piana degli Albanesi sits on a beautiful lake
i cugini - Pasquale e Giusseppe
yet another cannoliAfter the huge lunch and cannoli, I was feeling rather full. Generally, after a big meal, a nice walk is in order. Instead, we piled back into the car and made our way to the farm. It was a rough ride, literally. Most of the way was gravel roads and both Meganne and I were feeling really queasy from all the food, the cannolo and the bumpy roads. After about 45 minutes, we finally made it to the farm. We got to watch the process and take a walk through the operation. Then at the end, they loaded Meganne up with about 20 pounds of their cheese.
After a great day, we said our goodbyes and went back to Balestrate for the evening.
La FamigliaWednesday, May 20, 2009
Good Eats
On my previous trip into Palermo I found a place near the station where I ate a good cannolo and they had what looked like really good arancine (giant fried rice balls). That was the first place Meganne and I went once we got into Palermo on Friday morning to pick up the rental car. We shared an arancina and had a couple small cannoli to start the day and what a way to start the day!
After that we walked to the fish market but by the time we got there, everything was already sold out! We were told everything is sold by 7a.m.! So then we walked around the city and checked out a few of the fruit and veg markets that were listed on the city map. After lunch we ventured out to find a cannoli factory that I smelled while walking around when I was there on Tuesday. The factory was in an area that looked kind of dilapidated but it didn't really seem dangerous. We walked through one of the biggest and most ancient markets (il Mercato di Ballarò) where we were dazzled by beautiful produce, massive red peppers and an enormous, dark purple 800 pound tuna! "This place is great!"
A block later things quickly turned on us. Gone were the vendors calling us over to tempt us with their mounds of produce and towers of cheese. All of a sudden there were people selling what looked like dirty clothes that had been haphazardly thrown on the ground with all kinds of other junk. We both noticed the buildings looked like they had been bombed out. Meganne looked at me like, "You're taking me through this for a cannolo?" What we saw would make your local swap meet look like 5th Avenue in New York. Unfortunately, there are no photos of the "street swap meet" because I thought it a bad idea to take out my camera and start snapping away at their junk. We decided to retrace our footsteps to get back to the safety of the market and find the original route I had taken on Tuesday. First we smelled the cannoli in the air and we knew the little danger was totally worth it. Like in a cartoon, we floated in the air towards the doors...
A cannolo worth dying for (or getting robbed for).
After that we walked to the fish market but by the time we got there, everything was already sold out! We were told everything is sold by 7a.m.! So then we walked around the city and checked out a few of the fruit and veg markets that were listed on the city map. After lunch we ventured out to find a cannoli factory that I smelled while walking around when I was there on Tuesday. The factory was in an area that looked kind of dilapidated but it didn't really seem dangerous. We walked through one of the biggest and most ancient markets (il Mercato di Ballarò) where we were dazzled by beautiful produce, massive red peppers and an enormous, dark purple 800 pound tuna! "This place is great!"
A block later things quickly turned on us. Gone were the vendors calling us over to tempt us with their mounds of produce and towers of cheese. All of a sudden there were people selling what looked like dirty clothes that had been haphazardly thrown on the ground with all kinds of other junk. We both noticed the buildings looked like they had been bombed out. Meganne looked at me like, "You're taking me through this for a cannolo?" What we saw would make your local swap meet look like 5th Avenue in New York. Unfortunately, there are no photos of the "street swap meet" because I thought it a bad idea to take out my camera and start snapping away at their junk. We decided to retrace our footsteps to get back to the safety of the market and find the original route I had taken on Tuesday. First we smelled the cannoli in the air and we knew the little danger was totally worth it. Like in a cartoon, we floated in the air towards the doors...
The finished product...
A cannolo worth dying for (or getting robbed for).Monday, May 18, 2009
Spaghetti con Cozze, Calamari, e Gamberi
Meganne arrived on Wednesday arrived afternoon so we spend much of the next two days on the beach and relaxing. I was six days into my holiday in Sicily and I hadn't even eaten any fish! On Thursday I planned to make spaghetti with clams but unfortunately all the clams were sold out. The friendly fishmonger told us it was no problem, she recommended that we make spaghetti with mussels, calamari and prawns. She was kind enough to cut and clean the calamari and prawns and she told us how to cook the mussels as well so we wouldn't have to clean them. Recipe follows:
If you're using mussels that don't happen to be already cleaned follow the fishmonger's advice and put them in a hot pan without any water, oil, wine or anything. They'll open up after a few minutes then you can pull the little nugget of meat out.
For two:
10 - 12 oz of spaghetti
Prawns, Calamari, Mussels or an combo of what looks good
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 whole cloves of garlic
1/2 glass of white wine
Cherry tomatoes - halved
chopped flat-leaf parsley
Bring a large pot of water on to boil. Salt the water just before you add the pasta.
In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Once the oil starts to smoke, add the cloves of garlic but make sure not to burn them, tilt the handle of the pan forward so they fry in the oil. Once you can smell the garlic add the cherry tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Saute the tomatoes, if you want them to give up the ghost and become part of the sauce, cook them longer. If you want them to retain their integrity saute them for less time or add them at the end. Pour in the white wine, toss in the mussels, crank up the heat and cover the pan. The mussels, if raw, should cook in about 6-8 minutes. Add the rest of the seafood, keeping in mind that the prawns and calamari only take a few minutes to cook. Throw in a pinch of the chopped parsley. If the sauce looks a little tight, splash in a bit of the salted cooking water. When the pasta is about a minute from al dente add it to the saute pan and toss it for a minute. Turn off the heat and throw in another good pinch of parsley.
If you're using mussels that don't happen to be already cleaned follow the fishmonger's advice and put them in a hot pan without any water, oil, wine or anything. They'll open up after a few minutes then you can pull the little nugget of meat out.For two:
10 - 12 oz of spaghetti
Prawns, Calamari, Mussels or an combo of what looks good
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 whole cloves of garlic
1/2 glass of white wine
Cherry tomatoes - halved
chopped flat-leaf parsley
Bring a large pot of water on to boil. Salt the water just before you add the pasta.
In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Once the oil starts to smoke, add the cloves of garlic but make sure not to burn them, tilt the handle of the pan forward so they fry in the oil. Once you can smell the garlic add the cherry tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Saute the tomatoes, if you want them to give up the ghost and become part of the sauce, cook them longer. If you want them to retain their integrity saute them for less time or add them at the end. Pour in the white wine, toss in the mussels, crank up the heat and cover the pan. The mussels, if raw, should cook in about 6-8 minutes. Add the rest of the seafood, keeping in mind that the prawns and calamari only take a few minutes to cook. Throw in a pinch of the chopped parsley. If the sauce looks a little tight, splash in a bit of the salted cooking water. When the pasta is about a minute from al dente add it to the saute pan and toss it for a minute. Turn off the heat and throw in another good pinch of parsley.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
La Sicilia da Solo
After a massive amount of stress due to moving, May 1st finally arrived and I was out of my apartment and on my way to Sicily. I stayed in a small town called Balestrate which is east of Palermo and sits right on the water. During off-season, Balestrate has a population of about 5,000 people but during the months of June, July and August it can swell to almost 40,000! The plan for my first five days in Sicily was to do as little as possible, seriously. I went to the beach almost everyday, cooked for myself, read a lot and slept even more.
Brian was kind enough to give me a ride to the airport, a great friend over the last two years.
Brian was kind enough to give me a ride to the airport, a great friend over the last two years.
Bored at the airport.
The view from my balcony.
The beach at Balestrate.
Sunset in Balestrate.
Trying to frighten the locals.
A cooked rabbit's head, note the eyeball, the teeth and the rosemary whiskers.By the third day I started going a bit stir crazy as I had seen just about everything in Balestrate after the first day. When I started talking to myself I decided it was time to get out see a bit more of Sicily. I caught an early train to Palermo for a day of eating and half-assed sight-seeing. I wandered about the center of town for a while, stopped to read in anyplace that looked good for it, drank a lot of espresso, munched on whatever looked good, which is just about everything, unfortunately.
Lunch: Spleen Sandwich and a fried rice ball.
Porta Nuova 
A heavenly little cannoli Saturday, May 16, 2009
Monday Nights with the Wangs
Since about the middle of January I had been going to 6 euro pizza night at a Naples-style pizzeria. It started with Alastair and myself, then at some point it blossomed into a full on group thing and our gang even named ourselves, "The Wangs". I'm not exactly sure why that moniker came to describe our gang but everyone seemed to agree on its overall awesomeness. I think the largest we ever were on was 14 and the smallest 4. It became such a regular thing that we no longer really needed to even confirm with each other. It was known that Monday night at 21.15 was pizza time at Pizza Re. We always ate well and had a good laugh rehashing the previous weekends' shenanigans. The staff soon came to know us (read: recognize) and our usual server was quite kind. When I told him I was leaving he said to make sure to come back to have a pizza when I returned and that he would definitely be there. Too funny!
Lauren
Alastair, Crystal and Meganne
Jules
Left to Right: Crystal, Amanda, Lauren, Alastair, Jules, Me, Meganne
Lauren
Alastair, Crystal and Meganne
Jules
Left to Right: Crystal, Amanda, Lauren, Alastair, Jules, Me, Meganne
Surprise Party
After I got back from my Easter Holiday, time really started flying. I was working, trying to plan my return home, trying to see everyone that I had met over the past three years and trying to pack my entire life into three pieces of luggage.
I was starting to stress about not having enough time to say goodbye to everyone because my schedule was so full and I didn't want to give up my remaining nights with Meganne or any other things I do on a weekly basis. On Friday the 24th of April, Meganne and I went out for the evening. The idea was to go out for a walk around town and find a nice place for dinner with no particular plan in place or so I thought. I was tired and wanted to go home after dinner but Meganne said she really wanted to go have a drink after dinner. I told her that was fine but I really didn't want to go to the Abbey because it's hard to walk out of that place sober and I had partaken in more than a few goodbye drinks the night before. I thought it slightly odd that she wanted to go out after dinner but she said she was in the mood have a drink.
She talked me into going to the Abbey and when I walked in there was no one that I knew at the bar. That's practically impossible considering that I worked there for almost two years and it was a Friday night. I commented to her that there were no familiar faces in the bar. She said, "Yeah, weird, right? I think Lauren is upstairs." Strange again but I didn't think anything of it. Then we went upstairs and I opened the door to about 40 of my friends! I had been had! Jules had organized a surprise party for me, I had not a clue. I'm truly grateful to have made such great friends over the past three years and I was so happy that I was able to say my goodbyes to so many of them in one night. It was a truly a memorable evening!
Jules the Mastermind
Amanda and Meganne
Alex and Lauren
Lauren
Lauren and Alastair
Luciano
Alex
Alex and Lauren
Made by Meganne
Alastair and Meganne
Oliver and Tom
I was starting to stress about not having enough time to say goodbye to everyone because my schedule was so full and I didn't want to give up my remaining nights with Meganne or any other things I do on a weekly basis. On Friday the 24th of April, Meganne and I went out for the evening. The idea was to go out for a walk around town and find a nice place for dinner with no particular plan in place or so I thought. I was tired and wanted to go home after dinner but Meganne said she really wanted to go have a drink after dinner. I told her that was fine but I really didn't want to go to the Abbey because it's hard to walk out of that place sober and I had partaken in more than a few goodbye drinks the night before. I thought it slightly odd that she wanted to go out after dinner but she said she was in the mood have a drink.
She talked me into going to the Abbey and when I walked in there was no one that I knew at the bar. That's practically impossible considering that I worked there for almost two years and it was a Friday night. I commented to her that there were no familiar faces in the bar. She said, "Yeah, weird, right? I think Lauren is upstairs." Strange again but I didn't think anything of it. Then we went upstairs and I opened the door to about 40 of my friends! I had been had! Jules had organized a surprise party for me, I had not a clue. I'm truly grateful to have made such great friends over the past three years and I was so happy that I was able to say my goodbyes to so many of them in one night. It was a truly a memorable evening!
Jules the Mastermind
Amanda and Meganne
Alex and Lauren
Lauren
Lauren and Alastair
Luciano
Alex
Alex and Lauren
Made by Meganne
Alastair and Meganne
Oliver and Tom
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