We just got back from our short weekend in Milan, and we are exhausted. Because of our flight times we had only Saturday to spend in the city, so we missed a few key pieces of tourist musts. We weren't able to see da Vinci's Last Supper because it was sold out, and we didn't do any museums.
On the up-side, we did climb to the top of Milan's famous Cathedral in Piazza del Duomo. The day was beautiful, so our view was spectacular, and surprisingly not too cold. We also had some delicious food. There was an unbelievable pizza restaurant that only serves one kind of pizza. We got ours to go and devoured it in about a minute flat. We also had an incredible lunch at a small trattoria. Charles had cuore (beef heart) and Allie had tacchino (turkey). Both were excellent. As mentioned on the front page, we also found an American bakery where we salivated at the sights and smells of forgotten treats. Six months without even seeing a real cookie was reason enough to splurge on these calorie-laden delights (after eating them we walked the 165 steps to the top of the Duomo, so the guilt quickly faded).
On Saturday night we went to the Brand New concert, an American band we've been fans of for a while now. The club was dark and buried in a forgotten section of town, and it was a great show. We actually managed to find it without too many problems.
In short, Milano made for a fun weekend trip, and we plan to head back one of these days to see that darned da Vinci painting!
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Now Taking Donations
If you've been following all of our bragging about what a warm and pleasant winter we've been having, you will find this story particularly ironic.
About a month ago Dante promised to check our meter to let us know what our gas and electric bill was, since we had yet to pay any utilities since moving in. We reminded him again this weekend, and yesterday we got the news. Our gas and electric combined has totaled 900 euro. That is no typo. Somehow we have managed to rack up a bill far beyond comprehension.
Now, let me explain. First of all, here in the humid south we have discovered that the walls of our dear cottage are very subsceptible to mold. That said, we were advised by some of our students that the best way to combat the mold is to leave the windows open and let the fresh air circulate. SInce we are gone most of the day in Rome for work, this is precisely what we've been doing, and when we get home in the evening it is quite cold in the house, and so we crank up the heat.
Mariella provided us with a winter blanket back in October, and although it feels very heavy, it doesn't do much to keep in the heat. After a few cold nights of not very good sleep we decided it would be a good idea to keep the heat on a low setting throughout the night. This helped us sleep more comfortably, but it obviously added to our high bill.
Finally, we didn't realize (although we should have) that the price of petrol is about 3 times higher here than it is in the good ol' uS of A. Sometimes we forget that things are not the same as they are back home, and Dante sometimes forgets that we don't know how things work in Italy. It is unfortunate that he forgot to check our meter for so long, because if he had told us a month or so back how much gas we were truly using, we could have corrected the problem and saved ourselves a lot of extra cash.
So, we have learned yet another lesson the hard way (thankfully Dante is understanding and will let us pay in installments), but we have lost 900 euro, which could have been a really fun trip somewhere, and that just sucks.
About a month ago Dante promised to check our meter to let us know what our gas and electric bill was, since we had yet to pay any utilities since moving in. We reminded him again this weekend, and yesterday we got the news. Our gas and electric combined has totaled 900 euro. That is no typo. Somehow we have managed to rack up a bill far beyond comprehension.
Now, let me explain. First of all, here in the humid south we have discovered that the walls of our dear cottage are very subsceptible to mold. That said, we were advised by some of our students that the best way to combat the mold is to leave the windows open and let the fresh air circulate. SInce we are gone most of the day in Rome for work, this is precisely what we've been doing, and when we get home in the evening it is quite cold in the house, and so we crank up the heat.
Mariella provided us with a winter blanket back in October, and although it feels very heavy, it doesn't do much to keep in the heat. After a few cold nights of not very good sleep we decided it would be a good idea to keep the heat on a low setting throughout the night. This helped us sleep more comfortably, but it obviously added to our high bill.
Finally, we didn't realize (although we should have) that the price of petrol is about 3 times higher here than it is in the good ol' uS of A. Sometimes we forget that things are not the same as they are back home, and Dante sometimes forgets that we don't know how things work in Italy. It is unfortunate that he forgot to check our meter for so long, because if he had told us a month or so back how much gas we were truly using, we could have corrected the problem and saved ourselves a lot of extra cash.
So, we have learned yet another lesson the hard way (thankfully Dante is understanding and will let us pay in installments), but we have lost 900 euro, which could have been a really fun trip somewhere, and that just sucks.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Belated MLK Holiday
While everyone in the states enjoyed a nice long weekend thanks to The King, we spent Monday doing our usual lessons. But on Tuesday we were given a belated holiday.
We got up at 6am as usual to get ready for work in time to catch the 7:20 train to Rome. When we arrived at the station we thought it was a bit odd that there seemed to be a larger number of people waiting around in the building. We went inside to check the schedule board only to discover that the trains were running an average of one hour behind schedule!
The next train scheduled to arrive was the 6:44 train, and so everyone who was supposed to be on that train all the way to everyone who would have caught the 7:20 train with us was waiting to get on any train that would take them to Rome so they could begin their day.
Finally, the first of the trains arrived, actually 70 minutes late, and as you can imagine the crowd at the station had grown exponentially in this time. Of course, Zagarolo is not the origin of this train, and so the same problem was happening at every station before us, and even as it arrived in Zagarolo this train was packed full.
We stood near the doors hoping maybe for a millimeter of space to squeeze into, but it was a chaotic mass of scrunched bodies. We looked at each other and backed out of the crowd. After a short discussion, we decided that the next few trains were probably going to be just as ridiculous, and we more than likely won't make it into Rome in time for our lessons.
The solution: Go home! Yay, a day off, thanks to TrenItalia! We called our boss and let him know the situation, and he called our students to tell them we wouldn't be able to make it in. The rest of our day was spent napping, reading, and just enjoying an unexpected holiday.
We got up at 6am as usual to get ready for work in time to catch the 7:20 train to Rome. When we arrived at the station we thought it was a bit odd that there seemed to be a larger number of people waiting around in the building. We went inside to check the schedule board only to discover that the trains were running an average of one hour behind schedule!
The next train scheduled to arrive was the 6:44 train, and so everyone who was supposed to be on that train all the way to everyone who would have caught the 7:20 train with us was waiting to get on any train that would take them to Rome so they could begin their day.
Finally, the first of the trains arrived, actually 70 minutes late, and as you can imagine the crowd at the station had grown exponentially in this time. Of course, Zagarolo is not the origin of this train, and so the same problem was happening at every station before us, and even as it arrived in Zagarolo this train was packed full.
We stood near the doors hoping maybe for a millimeter of space to squeeze into, but it was a chaotic mass of scrunched bodies. We looked at each other and backed out of the crowd. After a short discussion, we decided that the next few trains were probably going to be just as ridiculous, and we more than likely won't make it into Rome in time for our lessons.
The solution: Go home! Yay, a day off, thanks to TrenItalia! We called our boss and let him know the situation, and he called our students to tell them we wouldn't be able to make it in. The rest of our day was spent napping, reading, and just enjoying an unexpected holiday.
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Blue Skies a' Shinin'
Since it sounds as if the Northwest is having one of its worst winters in years, we thought it would be completely appropriate to rub it in that Roma is having one of its best winters ever! The weather here has been unbelievable; 50 to 60 degrees and beautiful blue skies almost daily. Of course, all of our students tell us that this is quite uncommon. This type of bizarre winter weather has to make you think about what we're doing to the planet, but in the meantime we'll enjoy the weather and read about polar bears on thin ice! A student also informed us that meteorologists are predicting an unusually hot summer in Rome as well, so in a few months we may be complaining about our blue skies (at least we'll have the pool to seek refuge in).
In other good news, we just had our first Italian lesson with Mariella. Two hours later, our heads were ready to explode. It's interesting and enlightening to feel how our students probably do after an hour or two of English with us a few times a week! Well, it wasn't too painful but it was really difficult. We're seeing so much improvement within ourselves over the last few months it's unreal. Our vocabulary has improved quite a bit and hopefully these lessons will lead to us being able to do more than point and grunt at what we want! We're excited about being able to advance beyond our present caveman stage of the languge.
As for the rest of the day, we don't have too much going on except a lot of cooking to do. Charles is making homemade pasta for the lasagna because we forgot to buy the boxed kind at the supermarket. Hopefully, it turns out well. We'll let you know!
In other good news, we just had our first Italian lesson with Mariella. Two hours later, our heads were ready to explode. It's interesting and enlightening to feel how our students probably do after an hour or two of English with us a few times a week! Well, it wasn't too painful but it was really difficult. We're seeing so much improvement within ourselves over the last few months it's unreal. Our vocabulary has improved quite a bit and hopefully these lessons will lead to us being able to do more than point and grunt at what we want! We're excited about being able to advance beyond our present caveman stage of the languge.
As for the rest of the day, we don't have too much going on except a lot of cooking to do. Charles is making homemade pasta for the lasagna because we forgot to buy the boxed kind at the supermarket. Hopefully, it turns out well. We'll let you know!
Tuesday, January 9, 2007
Tales From the Metro
So this week was our triumphant return to the world of English teaching, and we were certainly eager to begin work again after a very boring weekend. Monday went off without a hitch, just another day to add to the books, but this morning started off just a little uncomfortably for me (Allie).
On Tuesdays and Thursdays I have to take a rather long metro ride to one end of Rome for my lessons, and for someone who loves people watching, the metro is a wonderful place full of strange people doing even stranger things. This particular morning would prove to be no different.
As usual the train was packed with commuters heading to work at 8am, and so I found myself standing near the door and holding onto one of the rails that extends from the floor of the train to the ceiling. As I was standing there I noticed a man who didn't exactly look homeless, but he could have been. His hair was dirty and scraggly, he was several days overdue for a shave, and he was missing most of his teeth. He seemed normal enough at first, as I watched him ask another man when he would be exiting the train (as he was blocking the door and would need to move for the man to get off).
A few stops later, as the train began to slowly empty itself, there was no one left between me and this man. He moved so that he could lean against the seats near the pole I was grasping so that the side of his head was about 6 inches from my hand. As the train moved, I noticed that he was swaying a bit as he tried to stand there without holding onto anything for support. "Ok," I thought, "He's drunk at 8am, that explains the rough appearance." No big deal. Rome, like any city, has it's share of alcoholics, and as someone who uses public transportation I am accustomed to seeing them.
Being the polite girl that I am I tried not to stare at his dirty hair and instead focused my gaze on the wall of the train car. Very soon I could see in my peripheral vision that the man was now staring right at me very intently. This was uncomfortable for obvious reasons, but I tried to ignore it. He continued his swaying back and forth, his head slowly moving towards and away from my hand. The next thing I know this man is not swaying, but intently moving his head towards my hand with his lips puckered! I reacted quickly and moved my hand away before his nasty mouth could reach my delicate skin, and as I moved I shot him a look that said, "If you even touch me I will knock your one remaining tooth right out of your head!" The look seemed to say enough and he sort of smiled ashamedly and moved his position so he was facing the doors.
Just to be on the safe side I moved away from him as well, but my entire morning was filled with awful what-if fantasies regarding all the possible diseases I could have contracted from just a second-long touch by that creep!
On Tuesdays and Thursdays I have to take a rather long metro ride to one end of Rome for my lessons, and for someone who loves people watching, the metro is a wonderful place full of strange people doing even stranger things. This particular morning would prove to be no different.
As usual the train was packed with commuters heading to work at 8am, and so I found myself standing near the door and holding onto one of the rails that extends from the floor of the train to the ceiling. As I was standing there I noticed a man who didn't exactly look homeless, but he could have been. His hair was dirty and scraggly, he was several days overdue for a shave, and he was missing most of his teeth. He seemed normal enough at first, as I watched him ask another man when he would be exiting the train (as he was blocking the door and would need to move for the man to get off).
A few stops later, as the train began to slowly empty itself, there was no one left between me and this man. He moved so that he could lean against the seats near the pole I was grasping so that the side of his head was about 6 inches from my hand. As the train moved, I noticed that he was swaying a bit as he tried to stand there without holding onto anything for support. "Ok," I thought, "He's drunk at 8am, that explains the rough appearance." No big deal. Rome, like any city, has it's share of alcoholics, and as someone who uses public transportation I am accustomed to seeing them.
Being the polite girl that I am I tried not to stare at his dirty hair and instead focused my gaze on the wall of the train car. Very soon I could see in my peripheral vision that the man was now staring right at me very intently. This was uncomfortable for obvious reasons, but I tried to ignore it. He continued his swaying back and forth, his head slowly moving towards and away from my hand. The next thing I know this man is not swaying, but intently moving his head towards my hand with his lips puckered! I reacted quickly and moved my hand away before his nasty mouth could reach my delicate skin, and as I moved I shot him a look that said, "If you even touch me I will knock your one remaining tooth right out of your head!" The look seemed to say enough and he sort of smiled ashamedly and moved his position so he was facing the doors.
Just to be on the safe side I moved away from him as well, but my entire morning was filled with awful what-if fantasies regarding all the possible diseases I could have contracted from just a second-long touch by that creep!
Friday, January 5, 2007
The Year in Review
Tis the season to become all introspective and nostaligic, however, we can't seem to look anywhere but ahead. But, I'll try to look back at our previous year anyway. Basically, 2006 was split into two halves for us. The first half consisted of us stressing about making this huge move across the globe. Will we be able to save enough money? Are we insane? Will we be able to find jobs? Will we be able to learn the language? Will we be able to stand one another by ourselves in a foreign country of all places? Will we be able to survive without our families and friends? These, plus about a million more questions plagued us daily, whether out loud or in our heads. Well, we made some lifestyle changes (mostly buying cheaper wine!), saved what we thought was enough money and made it happen. The first six months of the year went by in a flash, I really can't remember much of it because practically every moment and thought was focused on what was looming in the distance. By July, we had most of these questions sorted out and we had some how saved enough money to survive a few months without jobs.
So July 15th, two brave or stupid (depending how you look at it) Americans landed in a country that we truly had no clue about. It was hardly love at first sight but it's been a blossoming love affair to say the least. We got ripped off on the second day we were in Rome and from that moment the "romance" of Italy faded away and gave way to the reality of any major city in the world...that is: someone is always trying to rip you off. With our newly jaded attitudes we've been able to navigate Roma with relative ease. Now we just get ripped off at gelato shops but in a legal way, designed for tourists!
We really hit the jackpot when we found (thanks Rebecca) our cottage, not only because it's a great space but because of our great landlords, Dante and Mariella. They've been so helpful in every aspect of our stay, Mariella has picked us up at the train station in the pouring rain (sparing us a 25 minute walk home) and Dante took us to the train station and picked us up as well after our trip to Bologna. Not to mention, they take us to the farmer's market every Saturday. Needless to say, they've made our last three months much easier.
As for the much stressed over job and work visa situation, well, that's all in the past. We somehow managed to land jobs that pay very well and keep us very busy. Our colleagues have been real cool and helpful as well, mostly because they've all gone through or are going through similiar situations. We are really looking forward to getting back to work after our 16 day break!
Of course, the language barrier is still the biggest problem in our lives at the moment. However, we've finally decided to take lessons beginning this month from the same school we teach for and from Mariella every Sunday. We've learned a ton of new vocabulary and some short phrases but we still really can't spit out a proper sentence so that will be our focus for the year.
So, what are our plans for '07? First, we must begin to get a proper grasp on the language, doing this will open up so many more things for us. Second, travel as much as our slim pockets can afford. Third, have some family and friends visit us! Fourth, decide on some career paths for when we come home in a few years (we are planning to, don't worry), so we can make lots of money. So we've eaten our lentil beans (eating lentils brings wealth for the new year) and now we just have to make everything else happen.
So July 15th, two brave or stupid (depending how you look at it) Americans landed in a country that we truly had no clue about. It was hardly love at first sight but it's been a blossoming love affair to say the least. We got ripped off on the second day we were in Rome and from that moment the "romance" of Italy faded away and gave way to the reality of any major city in the world...that is: someone is always trying to rip you off. With our newly jaded attitudes we've been able to navigate Roma with relative ease. Now we just get ripped off at gelato shops but in a legal way, designed for tourists!
We really hit the jackpot when we found (thanks Rebecca) our cottage, not only because it's a great space but because of our great landlords, Dante and Mariella. They've been so helpful in every aspect of our stay, Mariella has picked us up at the train station in the pouring rain (sparing us a 25 minute walk home) and Dante took us to the train station and picked us up as well after our trip to Bologna. Not to mention, they take us to the farmer's market every Saturday. Needless to say, they've made our last three months much easier.
As for the much stressed over job and work visa situation, well, that's all in the past. We somehow managed to land jobs that pay very well and keep us very busy. Our colleagues have been real cool and helpful as well, mostly because they've all gone through or are going through similiar situations. We are really looking forward to getting back to work after our 16 day break!
Of course, the language barrier is still the biggest problem in our lives at the moment. However, we've finally decided to take lessons beginning this month from the same school we teach for and from Mariella every Sunday. We've learned a ton of new vocabulary and some short phrases but we still really can't spit out a proper sentence so that will be our focus for the year.
So, what are our plans for '07? First, we must begin to get a proper grasp on the language, doing this will open up so many more things for us. Second, travel as much as our slim pockets can afford. Third, have some family and friends visit us! Fourth, decide on some career paths for when we come home in a few years (we are planning to, don't worry), so we can make lots of money. So we've eaten our lentil beans (eating lentils brings wealth for the new year) and now we just have to make everything else happen.
Wednesday, January 3, 2007
The Cheese Tour
While in Parma we had to play the role of true tourists and do the Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese tour. It ended up being one of the highlights of our trip, and to top it off it was all free!
We arrived by taxi to the cheese consortium just on the outskirts of the city. It's called a consortium because it's not really a factory. The cheese is handmade every day, and they only do a small amount each day to ensure quality and consistency. We also learned that the "cheese master" is a very demanding job. He trains nearly his whole life (this particular cheese master has been in his position for 40 some odd years) and they work every single day of their life, holidays included. The cheese production never stops!
The employees of the consortium, including the cheese master, are responsible for every aspect of the cheese making. From milking the cows to checking the aging cheeses for imperfections, they do it all.
So, on our tour we got to watch the cheese making process from beginning to end, and it was very interesting to learn all that goes into this centuries-old process. We learned that they do not know when or by whom this process was created, but they do know that if they vary it in any small matter they do not get the same cheese. For example, the cheese makers were asked to wear latex gloves for hygenic purposes, and they found that without feeling the curds with their bare fingers they could not correctly tell when the cheese was finished cooking, and so the gloves were done away with.
They also have a tradition of using equal proportions of last night's milk and the morning's milk, which if changed also changes the outcome of their cheese. They showed us some of the differences in sound quality when they tap the aging cheese wheels, and it's amazing the ability they have to carefully discern the slightest variance in sound.
It was a really fun experience and one we would eagerly reccomend to anyone travelling to northern Italy. You will walk away with a great appreciation for the tradition of this cheese, and some samples to boot!
We arrived by taxi to the cheese consortium just on the outskirts of the city. It's called a consortium because it's not really a factory. The cheese is handmade every day, and they only do a small amount each day to ensure quality and consistency. We also learned that the "cheese master" is a very demanding job. He trains nearly his whole life (this particular cheese master has been in his position for 40 some odd years) and they work every single day of their life, holidays included. The cheese production never stops!
The employees of the consortium, including the cheese master, are responsible for every aspect of the cheese making. From milking the cows to checking the aging cheeses for imperfections, they do it all.
So, on our tour we got to watch the cheese making process from beginning to end, and it was very interesting to learn all that goes into this centuries-old process. We learned that they do not know when or by whom this process was created, but they do know that if they vary it in any small matter they do not get the same cheese. For example, the cheese makers were asked to wear latex gloves for hygenic purposes, and they found that without feeling the curds with their bare fingers they could not correctly tell when the cheese was finished cooking, and so the gloves were done away with.
They also have a tradition of using equal proportions of last night's milk and the morning's milk, which if changed also changes the outcome of their cheese. They showed us some of the differences in sound quality when they tap the aging cheese wheels, and it's amazing the ability they have to carefully discern the slightest variance in sound.
It was a really fun experience and one we would eagerly reccomend to anyone travelling to northern Italy. You will walk away with a great appreciation for the tradition of this cheese, and some samples to boot!
Tuesday, January 2, 2007
First Off, the Food
So, this may come as a shock to some of you, but Charles really likes Italian food. And this small obsession of his was the reason we headed into the Emilia-Romagna region for a freezing cold 6 day food tour. This parcticular region is known for a few wonderful food contributions we take for granted, such as Ragu Bolognese (Ragu Bologna style), Balsamic Vinegar (from Modena) and of course Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese (from non-other than Parma).
While we did have a lot of really good food, it was an unfortunate coincidence that our vacation fell during the same time as many restaurant owners, and so we weren't able to try a few restaurants we were hoping to eat at (but this probably served our pocketbooks better). We sampled some delicious homemade pastas, including a Parma favorite of tortellini di zucca (tortellini with pumpkin filling). We also had to try the renowned (and expensive) Culatello di Zibello, which is a cured meat that translates loosely to "buttness" of a pig made in the small town of Zibello outside of Parma.
We had a delicious slow roasted cinghiale (wild boar) in Modena, and at the same restaurant we sampled two outstanding pasta dishes. One was the tortellini fiocchi di neve (snowflakes) which were so tender and soft they melted in your mouth, and the other was known as "Nonna's maccheroni ragu", which was a savory red sauce cooked grandma's style; it was mixed with several different kinds of meat and slow cooked until just right. My mouth is watering just remembering these dishes!
Despite the horrible cold we were tempted into a gelato shop in Modena where we had treats that were worth the shivers. Charles had chocolate and coffee and I felt the need for a taste of home and ordered the Snickers flavor (it was like a really good Blizzard).
By the time we reached Bologna we were tired, running low on funds, and facing the fact that most places were closed for New Years. So, being the resourceful travellers we are, we ate Chinese food. It was cheap, delicious, and one of the few places actually open! In fact, the restaurant had a really cool floor; it was all glass (or plexiglass more likely) with fish swimming beneath your feet! Very fun.
In total, we ate some awesome food, had some great fun, and came back refreshed and full of new inspiration for our own cooking at home. But, as you can probably tell from our photos, we've seen enough churches for a while!
While we did have a lot of really good food, it was an unfortunate coincidence that our vacation fell during the same time as many restaurant owners, and so we weren't able to try a few restaurants we were hoping to eat at (but this probably served our pocketbooks better). We sampled some delicious homemade pastas, including a Parma favorite of tortellini di zucca (tortellini with pumpkin filling). We also had to try the renowned (and expensive) Culatello di Zibello, which is a cured meat that translates loosely to "buttness" of a pig made in the small town of Zibello outside of Parma.
We had a delicious slow roasted cinghiale (wild boar) in Modena, and at the same restaurant we sampled two outstanding pasta dishes. One was the tortellini fiocchi di neve (snowflakes) which were so tender and soft they melted in your mouth, and the other was known as "Nonna's maccheroni ragu", which was a savory red sauce cooked grandma's style; it was mixed with several different kinds of meat and slow cooked until just right. My mouth is watering just remembering these dishes!
Despite the horrible cold we were tempted into a gelato shop in Modena where we had treats that were worth the shivers. Charles had chocolate and coffee and I felt the need for a taste of home and ordered the Snickers flavor (it was like a really good Blizzard).
By the time we reached Bologna we were tired, running low on funds, and facing the fact that most places were closed for New Years. So, being the resourceful travellers we are, we ate Chinese food. It was cheap, delicious, and one of the few places actually open! In fact, the restaurant had a really cool floor; it was all glass (or plexiglass more likely) with fish swimming beneath your feet! Very fun.
In total, we ate some awesome food, had some great fun, and came back refreshed and full of new inspiration for our own cooking at home. But, as you can probably tell from our photos, we've seen enough churches for a while!
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